Would you like to know more about the raw materials and essences used in our fragrances? Would you like to know what type of accord can be created with wood, moss, resin, and white flowers? We are pleased to share with you our ingredient dictionary to help you navigate through the art of perfume making.
In perfumery, an accord is created when two or more notes from natural raw materials or synthetic materials are joined together with the objective of creating a new scent that is different from the individual materials. Just as a musician creates an accord using notes, a perfumer creates an accord using a palette of countless different components. The only difference is that the number of accords a perfumer can create is infinite...
A slightly animalic scent characteristic of a type of fixing agent whose smell is similar to that of the animal ambergris infusion naturally created by sperm whales.
Juicy, fruity green accord reminiscent of freshly cut apple.
The bergamot tree grows in Italy, Spain, South America, West Africa and California. The name 'bergamot' comes from the Turkish Beg-âr mû dî, which means 'prince of pears'. The Italian Gian Paolo successfully capitalised on bergamot's marvellous properties to create his 'Aqua Mirabilis', which later became 'Eau de Cologne'. Its delicious scent is used in the composition of Eau de Cologne and the famed Earl Grey tea. The essential oil is obtained by cold pressing the peels of green bergamot fruits. The scent is fresh, clean, lively, with light hints of suave orange and Earl Grey tea.
Native to Tibet, the shrub that produces blackcurrants grows throughout Northern Europe, and mainly in France (Burgundy), Holland, England and Poland. Dichloromethane is used as a method of extraction to obtain the Concrete from the buds. From this Concrete, ethanol is used to obtain the Absolute. The scent is fruity, sulphuric, green and minty.
Accord recreating the scent characteristic of milk caramel.
This spice, native to Asia, has been used in Europe for centuries. In the Middle Ages, members of the church were forbidden to use it by royal decree in worship services, as the scent was deemed too sensual. Steam distillation is used to obtain the essence from dried seeds, which is then used in perfumery for its spicy and woody scent with notes of camphor, aniseed and aldehyde.
The cinnamon tree grows in the wild, and is commercially grown in Sri Lanka, southern India and China. Steam distillation is used to obtain the essential oil from small pieces of dried bark. The scent is warm and strong and at the same time sweet with fruity-vanilla and peppery, spicy elements.
Native to the Middle East, these bushes grow in the wild all along the Mediterranean, but the branches are harvested only in Spain and Morocco. The Resinoid and Labdanum Absolute are obtained through extraction using volatile solvents. Hydrodistillation is used to obtain Cistus Essence from the leaves and branches. Its scent is warm and intense, with amber, animal, floral and balsamic notes.
Accord recalling green tea, to which a few cut herbs have been added.
Native to the Far East, Iris is now mainly produced in Italy (Florence region) and Morocco. Iris essence or butter (wrongly called concrete) is obtained through steam distillation of peeled, dried and ground rhizomes. Purification of the essence eliminates fatty acids, making it possible to obtain the Absolute. It has a subtle yet very strong scent: floral, violet powdery, green woody.
Whether growing in the wild or commercially, Lavender is found all along the Mediterranean basin. France is the primary producer of lavender, followed by Bulgaria, Russia and China. The name Lavender comes from the Latin 'Lavare', which means 'Wash': the Romans used lavender in their bath water. Lavender essence is obtained from fresh stems and flowers using steam distillation. The scent is floral, herbaceous, balsamic, woody and camphorous.
The lime tree is grown in all the Mediterranean regions, the United States, South America and West Africa. The essential oil is obtained from the peel of ripe fruits using cold expression. The scent is fresh, sparkling, tangy.
Commonly known as India Carnation, due to its strong resemblance to the carnation (dianthus caryophyllus), the marigold is a flower native to South America. Marigold essence is obtained by distilling the blossom. The scent is fruity, reminiscent of both mandarin and apricot nectar.
Oakmoss grows on the trunks and branches of oak trees in humid areas. It is harvested in France (Massif Central), Morocco and the Balkans. The concrete is obtained through extraction with solvents and in turn the Absolute is extracted with alcohol. It has a distinctive scent: a strong earthy smell of moss, humus and woody mushroom with marine accents.
Present all along the Mediterranean, Orange Blossom is mainly cultivated in Morocco and Tunisia. Orange Blossom Absolute is extracted from the blossoms of bitter orange trees using volatile solvents. It has a floral, waxy, green scent with powdery and sugary notes. It is heavier than Neroli essence and not as fresh.
A tropical plant native to Asia, more specifically Indonesia and the Philippines. Patchouli has large fragrant leaves from which the plant's essential oil has been extracted since antiquity. Steam distillation is used to obtain the essential oil from dried and fermented leaves. The strong scent of patchouli is woody, earthy, camphorous, green and mossy.
The name mint comes from the nymph Minthe. Because Pluto was in love with her, jealous Proserpine turned her into a plant. It is grown in the United States, Spain, France, Italy, the Balkans and India. The plant is harvested when it just starts to blossom. It is then dried, but not thoroughly, before the essence is extracted using steam distillation. The scent is 'minty', fresh and green with a herbaceous touch.
Fruity, exotic and distinctive note. Native to Central America and the Caribbean, the pineapple plant is a herbaceous plant in the bromeliad family. Pineapple's highly subtle aroma is very precious in perfumery.
Pink peppercorn is part of the pepper family. It is native to Réunion Island, South America, Florida, Madagascar and New Caledonia.
Accord that smells like plum jam.
Several rose varieties from the ROSACEAE family are used: primarily ROSA CENTIFOLIA or ROSE DE MAI and ROSA DAMASCENA or DAMASK ROSE. The varieties used to obtain rose essence are grown in France, Italy, Morocco, Bulgaria and Turkey. The Concrete and Absolute are obtained through extraction with volatile solvents. The essential oil is obtained from freshly hand-picked petals using steam distillation. Each rose variety has a different smell. White rose has floral green/hyacinth facets. Red rose has fruity (strawberry/raspberry) facets. Tea Rose has tea and apricot facets.
Sandalwood grows in Southeast Asia, mainly in the Indian province of Mysore. To obtain the essential oil, the heartwood is turned into dried shavings and the roots are ground and dried. These elements then undergo steam distillation. The scent is woody, oriental, balsamic, powdery, milky, warm, enveloping and velvety. It lasts a very long time.
Siam Benzoin is a balsamic resin exudate from the benzoin tree, native to Indochina. It is harvested in Malaysia, Laos and Vietnam. The exudate flows from incisions made in the bark and the outer part of the wood. Its semi-liquid consistency quickly hardens and becomes brittle when it comes in contact with air. The Resinoid (used in perfumery) is obtained by using solvents to extract 'benzoin tears'. The scent is sweet with vanilla accents. It is long-lasting and retains its resinous and balsamic elements while also being milky, powdery and spicy.
The pepper plant grows in India, Indonesia and Southeast Asia. Steam distillation is used to obtain the essential oil from whole or crushed peppercorns, harvested prior to becoming fully ripe. The scent is spicy fresh with a light herbaceous nuance.
Stephanotis, or Madagascar Jasmine, is native to Madagascar, China, etc. A symbol of happiness, its star-shaped flowers are used for their beauty and their fragrance. The Absolute is obtained from the flower through solvent extraction. This flower's fragrance is very floral, similar to Jasmine, but with fruity notes such as plum, coconut and vanilla bean.
Accord characteristic of fruit, since wild strawberry is more green, with a violet flower aspect.
There is no Teak Wood extract. 'This accord creates a very dry, woody scent that could even be called spicy.'
Native to Central America, Tuberose is mainly grown in India, but also in France, Morocco, Egypt and the Comoros. The Concrete is obtained by using the enfleurage process on flowers picked by hand. In turn, the Absolute is obtained via extraction with volatile solvents. The scent is heady, fruity and lactonic with notes of jasmine, orange and honey.
A vine native to Mexico, vanilla was introduced in the 17th century to islands in the Indian Ocean: Madagascar, Réunion Island and the Comoros. It is a climbing orchid that can reach 50 metres in length. The Absolute is obtained by treating pods harvested before they are fully ripe and subjecting them to a 34-month maturation process. The scent is sweet and balsamic with a sugary aspect.
This tree is native to the United States, and mainly found in the state of Florida. For many different peoples, the Cedar, a tree that is both sturdy and unyielding, was home to the god of thunder and the most sacred of all plants. Cedar was used in Ancient Egypt to embalm the bodies of the deceased. Steam distillation is used to obtain Virginia Cedar essential oil from wood chips and sawdust. The scent is woody, sweet, balanced. The Florida essences have a suave, balsamic tone while those from the Atlas Mountains have a leathery, animalic aroma.
Musks are synthetic products. They are essential in perfumery because they provide diffusion elements and help the fragrance to last.
Ylang-ylang (Cananga odorata), or ilang-ilang, is a tree in the Annonaceae family, native to Southeast Asia. It is grown for its flowers, which are distilled to extract an essential oil used widely in perfumery.